Castile Soap (technically Batstille Soap) – This is a video of me making this soap.
I don’t claim to be a soap making expert, but I’ve made this recipe many times and am always happy with it.
Equipment:
- Immersion Blender – this is the one we use. We like it because the mixing portion is stainless steel. It’s well made. The bottom/metal part detaches for cleaning.
- Thermometer
- Soap mold – you can buy ones like these or this. But I just use a cardboard box lined with wax paper.
- Protective gear: apron, rubber gloves, safety goggles.
Ingredients:
- 25 oz of Olive Oil
- 2 oz of Cacao Butter
- 3.46 oz of Lye
- 8.5 oz water (distilled water is best…but I usually use my well water)
Instructions:
MAKE THE LYE WATER
Wear your protective gear. Lye & lye water can hurt you…chemical burns. You don’t want any to splash in your eyes or on your skin! Don’t inhale the fumes when you mix the lye and water.
Measure out the lye and water in separate containers using a digital scale. (Using a scale is important…weight, not volume for best results. Next, slowly add the lye to the water, stirring continuously until fully dissolved. The mixture will heat up and become cloudy. Set aside to cool in a well-ventilated area.
MELT THE OILS
Measure the oils separately. Once again weigh them. Next, combine oils in a large pot. Heat (medium-low) the olive oil and cacao butter until the cacao butter is fully melted. Set aside to cool.
STICK BLEND LYE & OILS TO TRACE
Have your soap molds and any fragrance or color you want to add ready.
Mixing the lye and oils is when the saponification process begins.
Before you mix them together, the lye water and oils should be cooled to about 100-115 degrees F. After this happens, CAREFULLY pour the lye water into the pot with the oils.
Using the hand immersion blender, mix until it reaches ‘trace’. Trace is when the mixture has emulsified. You can tell because it thickens. At light trace (the consistency of thin cake batter) you can add any essential oils. I usually add a tablespoon of tea tree oil & a tablespoon of lemon oil.
Continue blending. The mix will reach medium trace…thick cake batter….as you move the blender through the mix it will leave “trails” in the mix. Continued blending will yield thick trace….consistency of pudding…mix holds shape in globs when poured.
You can pour into your mold at either Medium or thick trace. After you pour the mix into your mold, tap the sides, jiggle the mold to settle the mix & remove any air bubbles.
CURE, UNMOLD, CUT, USE
Allow the soap to set in the mold for 24-48 hours before unmolding. Since I do mine in a box, after I unmold, I cut into squares or rectangle pieces sized as desired. Then I place the pieces in a box…spread out for air circulation and covered with wax paper and a towel. Then place the box in a dry, cool, dark area. Cure the unmolded soap for at least 3 weeks….I cure mine for about 4 months (longer the better for making the soap longer lasting/harder/dryer). Then use.
EXTRA NOTES:
You can add other things to your soap in the Medium Trace stage…..like oatmeal. Which I did in the soap pictured below. Other ideas for things to add: Coffee grounds for exfoliation. Ground cinnamon. Minced dried Rosemary. Cocoa powder. Dried flowers…like rose petals, calendula, lavender. Charcoal (detoxifying and color for a black soap). Try googling soap making ideas and have FUN!
Here’s a video I did of me making a slightly different soap recipe.